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Micellar Water and Cancer: An Overview

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Micelle water is a cosmetic product that removes dirt, oil, and makeup from the skin. The article throws light on its link with cancer.

Medically reviewed by

Dr. Rajesh Gulati

Published At August 18, 2023
Reviewed AtAugust 24, 2023

Introduction

Micellar water is a cosmetic product. It has become quite popular as a face cleanser and moisturizer. It is also used as a makeup removal product. It contains a mixture of oil and water. Tiny droplets of a substance known as micelles remain suspended in the soft water. It acts both as a hydration and cleanser. Micellar water does not need rinsing off after application, so it is a no-rinse cleanser. It is a quick way to remove makeup, oil, and grime; hence it is highly recommended.

What Are the Uses of Micellar Water?

Micelle water is used as a cleansing solution to remove dirt, grime, and impurities from the skin's surface. Glycerin is one of the ingredients in micellar water that keeps the skin hydrated without the need for a moisturizer. It does not contain alcohol, so it does not dry out the skin. Thus it is effective in dry skin types as well.

The surfactants present in micellar water prevent any inflammation and irritation of the skin.

Once applied, there is no need to rinse off micellar water. This makes it convenient to use with easy portability compared to other cleaners.

What Are the Ingredients of Micellar Water?

Micellar water has several ingredients. Most of those are considered safe and are used in many other cosmetic products. However, a few of the ingredients are found to be controversial with regard to having a detrimental effect on one's health.

1. Polyhexamethylene Biguanide or PHMB:

The controversial ingredient of Micellar water, polyhexamethylene biguanide (PHMB), is thought to be cancer-causing or carcinogenic. However, PHMB is present in many products that are primarily used as a cleansing solution. For example, it is found in antiseptic products for wound cleansing, perioperative cleansing products, contact lens cleansing solutions, and as an ingredient in swimming pool cleaners and other surfaces.

A few studies were conducted on mice to find out the effect of PHMB on their genetics or behavior. It was found that the effect of PHMB on genetics was quite low. However, mice receiving a high dosage of PHMB were found to develop liver tumors. However, the exact mechanism of developing liver cancers could not be found. Hence, it is only confirmed whether PHMB is carcinogenic through further research. In another study, mice were fed with PHMB-infused water, which led to an increased incidence of liver tumors. However, this hypothesis does not hold for the rats given a high dose of PHMB in food who did not develop tumors. Thus, a similar risk of cancer to humans using micelle water was quite doubtful.

2. Polyaminopropyl Biguanide or PAPB:

Polyaminopropyl biguanide or PAPB is chemically similar to PHMB or with similar properties. However, it has been found to be less toxic and inefficient as an antimicrobial as compared to PHMB.

3. Poloxamer 184:

Poloxamer 184 is primarily used as a cleansing agent in the cosmetic industry. In addition, it is present in micellar water as a surfactant. It has been thought to cause low toxicity to non-reproductive organs. However, it has been found to cause mild skin irritation and nothing beyond that. The International Journal of Toxicology found that around five percent concentration of Poloxamer 184 in beauty products caused mild inflammation and skin redness in rabbits. However, no systemic impact was found apart from mild skin irritations.

4. Other Ingredients:

The other ingredients of micelle water are surfactants and purified water. Surfactants are substances that keep oil and water together and do not let them separate. Micelles are the small clusters that are formed when surfactants are added to the purified water. These micelles help in removing oil deposited on the skin surface. Apart from surfactants, the other ingredients in micelle water are:

  • Glycerine - It is also known as glycerol. It is derived from natural oil and certain animal compounds and has various benefits.

  • Aloe vera - Aloe vera is a plant product used to treat various skin conditions.

Does Micellar Water Cause Cancer?

Micellar water is usually considered safe for use. However, certain controversial ingredients in it, like PHMB, are thought to be carcinogenic and thus detrimental to health. The research on PHMB is mostly carried out on rats. These rats were fed water with a high concentration of PHMB. This concentration was way higher than the amount absorbed by the body when PHMB is used as a cleanser.

According to the journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, micellar water has been found to be effective in people with sensitive skin as it does not cause any skin irritation and is quite hydrating. PHMB is safe in small amounts. According to the European Union's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), PHMB is unsafe if used at a concentration of more than 0.3 percent in skin care products.

What Are the Other Alternatives to Micellar Water?

The ingredient PHMB is quite controversial when it comes to skin application. It is thought to be cancer-causing and has recently become a matter of concern. As a result, some cosmetic companies are also removing it from their products. However, PHMB is not an ingredient in every micellar water. Certain micellar water is devoid of PHMB or PAPB.

Conclusion

Micellar water is a facial cleanser used in the cosmetic industry to get rid of oil, dirt, grime, and makeup from the skin's surface. Purified water is the main ingredient of the product. The other ingredients are surfactants, humectants, and fragrances. Micelles are tiny bunches of molecules that bind to oil molecules, thus cleaning the skin's surface. As water is the prime component, it is quite unlikely for micellar water to cause cancer if applied in small amounts. However, in case of accidental ingestion, symptoms like nausea, vomiting, or diarrhea may occur. A few sips of normal water should be taken to remove the ingested solution. It can cause irritation to the eyes upon coming in contact. The eyes should be rinsed with water a couple of times. It might cause meibomian gland dysfunction - an eye condition affecting the oil glands of the eyes. In a nutshell, micelle water is not harmful if used mindfully in small quantities.

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Dr. Rajesh Gulati
Dr. Rajesh Gulati

Family Physician

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